Varanasi - The Most Extreme Indian Culture Shock

Varanasi -
Wow what a city. The oldest city in the world. The most spiritual city for Hindus and Jains located on the Ganges River. Varanasi is the only place the Ganges River flows from South to North.  It’s about 15 km away from the place Buddha gave his first sermon and founded Buddhism. Its the official city for Lord Shiva, the God that destroys evil. Known as the City of Light according to the Sanskrit translation of Kashi a previous name of the city. I have never been to a place like it and I love it.

For westerners who have been to India: In my experience being in Varanasi is like taking everything you know about traveling in India times 100. This applies to literally everything from the spirituality, the sanitation, the presence of mindfulness, the Masala chai tea, to so so so many other things. In my experience it is the most extreme of the extremes of India I have been exposed to - from the 80% literacy rate found here to the 70% unemployment to the luxury hotels and malls. The level of extremes in already an extreme country is massively heightened here. And you absolutely must come here if you travel to India - but make it one of your last stops so you are a little more desensitized to some of the normal everyday things here - you will see a lot in this city of what I’ve been calling “peak India.”

Boat Ride on the Ganges River - The Holiest River in Hinduism

For westerners who have not been to India: I have no idea how to explain the experience of being here in a way that will even begin to make sense. It is so completely different from anything I have ever experienced or seen. The closest thing I can think of that will still not do it justice is imagine being in a cattle ranch in all the glory of everything that means (smells, sensations - think about what kinds of things you see, hear and smell) then take that and juxtapose that on top of oldest city you have ever been in - preferable one not in America (because America is not that old). I’m talking so old that the streets do not fit cars and in places only fit the size of a person. Take that and add free range cattle.

I firmly believe that if you have grown up on or around a farm you are probably more prepared to be in this space than a westerner who grew up in a city. I only say this because my travel partner has never lived in the country and the intimacy of being super close to cows all the time in really narrow alleys... can be a lot - especially when the cow is doing its business (which cows do a lot). For me I was like oh yep a cow being a cow in the middle of a busy city with motor bikes honking- seems fairly normal/reasonable. My travel partner maybe had a more difficult time accepting this at first (he has since done much better). Also since there’s no grass in a city I want you to imagine what the cow is eating on a regular basis - you can ask me about that in person.

 Please keep in mind that cows are incredibly sacred here- I cannot stress that enough. Cows represent the mother because when you are born you first drink your mothers milk, and after that you drink the cows milk. Cows are also reincarnated into humans so if you are Hindu you would never EVER think about killing and eating a cow. So, when you are in India, you must accept the cows and I recommend you do. [Fun anecdote: one of my guides in Varanasi would casually pet some of the cows as we walked by them - usually if the cow was in the way he would pet it mostly I think to communicate we are moving by you, but also I think because it was a way of respecting the cow or showing kindness to it.]

Ok so now that you have the idea of what it might kind of feel like - add heat like you have never ever experienced. I’m talking “real feel” of 105 degrees Fahrenheit with 88-97% humidity, which means you are sweating through your shirts at least 3 times a day.

Finally, whatever has been your most spiritual experience in your life - it could be from your own religion, it could be a death of someone close to you, it could be personal moment of enlightenment- whatever that experience is for you, take that moment and times that experience by at least 10. You will have a similar experience in this city not just once but several times. I know it doesn’t make sense - I know it sounds super cliche - but I also believe that’s 100% true. I’m not even Hindu and I’ve had several of these experiences being here. The most intense of which for me was at cremation taking place on the Ganges river. That is why this city is amazing.